Middle Atlas Mountains: Why to Visit and Where to Stay
- Waleed
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
I stepped out of the car in Khenifra and the mountains just… stopped me. No photo prepares you for how big and green the Middle Atlas feels in the right season. Cedars everywhere, cold river air, and zero tourist buses. I’d come from the heat of Marrakech and suddenly I could breathe again. This is the quieter, cooler side of the Atlas most people never see.
The Atlas Mountains are the backbone of Morocco, a long chain that shapes the climate and separates the north from the Sahara. Most people only know the High Atlas near Marrakech with Toubkal, but if you want forests, lakes, waterfalls and almost no crowds, the Middle Atlas around Khenifra is the secret you’re looking for. It’s cooler, greener, and feels like the Morocco locals escape to on weekends.
If you’re planning a trip to Morocco and you have the middle atlas in mind, this post is for you. I’m breaking down the best time to see the Barbary macaque monkeys, how to avoid the busy spots, and what you actually need to know before you go. Think of it like getting travel tips from a friend who already tried it and is just telling you the truth, without the tourist-trap hype.
Shall we?
Best Time to Visit Middle Atlas Mountains
I came in late April and it was perfect. Mornings fresh around 12–15 °C, afternoons warm enough for a T-shirt, valleys bright green with wildflowers. I’ve talked to people who came in October and they say the light is golden and the trails are quiet. Honestly, I can’t imagine a bad month, but spring and autumn stole my heart.
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the sweetest times. Temperatures often sit between the mid-teens and mid-20s depending on the altitude and the day – perfect for walking all day without melting or freezing. Summer is fine too (usually cooler than the big cities because of the elevation), and winter brings cold nights and occasional snow on the higher peaks near places like Ifrane.
Spring is also the best time to spot the Barbary macaque (Macaca sylvanus), the only wild monkey species in Morocco. When the weather turns mild and the forests burst with fresh food, the macaques become more active and easier to see along the cedar trails. You’ll often find whole families grooming, playing or searching for shoots and seeds. Just remember that these monkeys are a protected species
Hiking & Other Activities
Every morning after breakfast I walked straight out the door and into the mountains. My favourite easy day was the Sources de l’Oum Er-Rbia, where dozens of springs burst out of the rock with macaques around the cedar forest. Another day I reached Lake Aguelmam Azegza; the water shines an intense blue in the sun, and depending on the season you can have it almost to yourself. The big one was Jbel Tanout – seven tough hours, but the 360° view from the top made me cry a little. Tired legs, happy soul.
Hiking is the number one reason to come. You can pick two-hour forest walks full of Barbary macaques, longer loops around lakes, or proper summit days. Some paths are marked, others are more local, so a guide is often helpful and still very affordable. The views beat anything you’ve seen on Instagram.
I rented a mountain bike and flew down forest tracks, went horse-riding across empty plateaus, swam under small waterfalls on hot afternoons, and just sat by the river at sunset. Simple days, but they felt huge.
You can also ride mountain bikes, ride horses with Berber guides, try via ferrata or climbing routes in certain areas, or even ski near Ifrane in winter. Whatever active thing you love, the Middle Atlas has it — and you’ll probably avoid the heavy crowds.
How to Get to The Middle Atlas
I flew into Casablanca, took a shared taxi straight to Khenifra (around four hours depending on traffic), and the driver dropped me at the guesthouse door. From Fes it’s about three hours. No expensive tours needed.
From Fes three hours, Casablanca around four, Marrakech five to six. Shared taxis or private transfers are cheap and straightforward, just ask your guesthouse to help.
Where to Stay? Dar Zayane.
I'm Moroccan and I have local friends in Khenifra who offered to host me for a week, so unless you are lucky like me, I suggest you stay at Dar Zayane. Super clean, big comfy beds, private balconies looking straight at the mountains. The swimming pool is a bliss after long hikes, and breakfast on the roof terrace is awesome: fresh msemen, warm bread, honey that tastes like flowers, amlou, eggs, fruit, perfect coffee. You'll eat much every day and have zero regrets. The owner family treats you like a friend from the first minute.
Dar Zayane is a small family-run guesthouse with only eight rooms, so it never feels busy. There’s a pool, a little hammam for tired legs, and that rooftop breakfast is one of the best in Morocco. The owners speak English, arrange guides, pack lunches, book taxis and more, so basically everything that you'd need. Guests say it feels like staying with friends.
On Booking.com it has 9.2/10 from hundreds of reviews: “kindest hosts in Morocco”, “that breakfast view is unforgettable”, “didn’t want to leave”. Prices around 60–80 € per night for two including breakfast – total bargain.
Here’s the link so you can see it for yourself and book:
Last Thing Before You Close This Tab
I left with dirty boots, sunburnt cheeks, and the calmest mind I’ve had in years. The Middle Atlas gave me silence, wild beauty, and people who made me feel instantly welcome. If you need a real break, go. Stay at Dar Zayane, open your balcony door, lace up your boots, and let the mountains do the rest.
I’ll probably be back before you, maybe we’ll pass each other on the trail. Say hi if you see a long-haired Moroccan grinning too much.
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