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Discovering Morocco: A Biker's Guide Inspired by Itchy Boots

Updated: Sep 19

This route for bikers in Morocco is inspired by Noraly Schoenmaker, known as Itchy Boots, and her solo motorcycle adventures. Riding her Honda CRF300L Rally, nicknamed Alaska, Noraly explores Morocco’s breathtaking landscapes. From the misty Rif Mountains to the golden Saharan dunes, she navigates rugged trails and vibrant cities. This detailed guide maps out her step-by-step route through Morocco, location by location, based on Season 7 episodes (1–13).

It includes vivid descriptions of the scenery, specific cities where she spent time, her activities, and practical tips for bikers eager to follow her path. Expect challenging roads, cultural immersion, and unforgettable vistas. These include a High Atlas pass that Noraly compares to the desolate, epic landscapes of Mordor from The Lord of the Rings, and an epic off-road ride to Dakhla’s coastal desert.

Overview of Noraly’s Morocco Journey (Season 7)

Noraly begins Season 7 in February 2023, shipping Alaska from Alaska to Malaga, Spain. Then, she takes a ferry to Tanger Med, Morocco. Her Moroccan route spans the Rif Mountains, High Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert, and the coastal city of Dakhla. It covers diverse terrains before heading toward Mauritania. The scenery shifts dramatically: lush green hills, stark mountain passes, endless desert dunes, and windswept coastal plains.

She faces snow, rain, and sandstorms, testing her skills on paved roads and rocky trails. Morocco’s rapid infrastructure development means some dirt roads are now paved, so ride soon to catch the off-road adventure. Her journey is later cut short by a crash in Tanzania, but the Morocco leg is a complete, thrilling chapter. This guide details her route, sceneries, city stops, and activities to help you plan your own epic ride.

Why Ride Morocco?

Morocco is a motorcyclist’s paradise, blending dramatic landscapes with rich cultural experiences. February offers cooler desert temperatures but potential snow in the mountains, as Noraly encounters. Her route avoids tourist-heavy hubs, focusing on authentic villages and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Whether you’re chasing off-road challenges or cultural connections, this route has it all.

Step-by-Step Route Through Morocco

Step 1: Tanger Med to Chefchaouen Rif Mountains (Season 7, Episode 2)


Location Details: Noraly arrives at Tanger Med, Morocco’s bustling northern port, via ferry from Malaga, Spain. She rides approximately 100 km to Chefchaouen, a charming town nestled in the Rif Mountains, famous for its blue-painted medina.

Scenery: The ride from Tanger Med winds through rolling green hills. The Rif Mountains rise in the distance, their peaks dusted with February snow. Lush valleys and misty air create a serene, almost mystical atmosphere, contrasting with the port’s industrial vibe.

Activities in Chefchaouen: Noraly explores the medina’s narrow, blue-washed streets, vibrant with local shops selling handmade crafts and tagines simmering with aromatic spices. She stays overnight in a riad, soaking in the town’s relaxed vibe, and prepares for her journey south, checking Alaska’s gear for mountain riding.

Riding Conditions: Smooth paved roads with gentle curves are common, but winter rain or snow can make surfaces slippery, especially in higher elevations. Noraly notes closed toll gates due to snow, requiring detours.

Highlights: Chefchaouen’s photogenic blue alleys and friendly locals, who warmly greet Noraly, make it a cultural gem. The mountain backdrop adds a dramatic flair to the ride.

Tips for Bikers

  • Gear: Pack waterproof layers, such as Noraly’s REV’IT! Component H2O jacket, for the Rif’s chilly, wet weather.

  • Navigation: Use a GPS like Noraly’s Carpe Iter Pad with OSM for accurate routing.

  • Accommodation: Book a riad in Chefchaouen for an authentic stay. Budget options are plentiful.

  • Sightseeing: Wander the medina and visit Place Outa el Hammam for mint tea and local vibes.

Step 2: Chefchaouen to Fes via Rural Roads (Season 7, Episodes 3–4)


Location Details: Noraly rides about 200–250 km from Chefchaouen toward Fes, a historic city, but avoids its busy center, opting for quieter rural roads through the Rif and Middle Atlas regions. She passes through small villages like Bab Berred and Jebha.

Scenery: The Rif Mountains give way to rolling hills blanketed in green fields, dotted with olive groves and grazing sheep. The roads twist through valleys, offering panoramic views of forested slopes under cloudy February skies. Noraly marvels at the lush, almost European-like greenery, a stark contrast to the desert ahead.

Activities: Noraly doesn’t linger in Fes but stops in smaller villages to refuel and interact with locals, who offer directions and share tea. She camps overnight in rural areas, setting up her tent to enjoy the peaceful countryside, and captures drone footage of the verdant landscapes.

Riding Conditions: Mostly paved roads with good grip are typical, but occasional dirt tracks require off-road skills. Rain can create muddy patches, as Noraly encounters.

Highlights: The serene rural scenery and warm local encounters stand out. Noraly’s chats with villagers highlight Morocco’s hospitality, a recurring theme in her journey.


Tips for Bikers

  • Route Planning: Stick to secondary roads for scenic views, but check for recent paving, as Morocco’s infrastructure is changing fast.

  • Camping: Bring a lightweight tent, like Noraly’s, for rural stops. Wild camping is feasible but respect private land.

  • Cultural Etiquette: Learn basic Arabic or French phrases to connect with locals, as Noraly does.

Step 3: High Atlas Mountains Mordor Moment (Season 7, Episodes 5–10)


Navigation Details: Noraly tackles the High Atlas Mountains, riding through remote passes and stopping in Midelt and Ouarzazate, covering about 300 km from Fes to Ouarzazate. Midelt is a gateway to the Atlas, while Ouarzazate, known as the Gateway to the Sahara, is a key hub.

Scenery: The High Atlas is a visual masterpiece. Jagged, snow-capped peaks tower over deep valleys, with rocky cliffs and barren slopes creating a dramatic, otherworldly landscape. In Episode 8, Noraly compares a stark, dark mountain pass to Mordor, the desolate realm from The Lord of the Rings, with its ominous, volcanic-like terrain and swirling clouds. The scenery shifts from green foothills in Midelt to rugged, reddish rock formations near Ouarzazate, evoking a sense of epic adventure.

Activities:

  1. Midelt: Noraly rests and refuels in this quieter town. She explores local markets, sampling fresh bread and dates, and chats with Amazigh (Berber) locals about mountain routes.

  2. High Atlas Passes: She navigates treacherous rocky descents, bending her gear shifter in a challenging downhill section with cliffs on one side (Episode 8). She relies on local guides for navigation through unmarked trails.

  3. Ouarzazate: After a 150 km limp with a damaged bike, Noraly gets Alaska repaired at a local mechanic. She visits the city’s film studios, known for Game of Thrones, and enjoys its vibrant kasbah, tasting local tagine.

Riding Conditions: Rocky, uneven trails and steep gradients demand advanced off-road skills. Paved sections exist near towns, but dirt and gravel dominate. High altitudes bring cold, even snowy conditions in February.

Highlights: The Mordor-like pass is a standout, with Noraly’s vivid description capturing its eerie beauty. Meeting Amazigh locals and their nomadic lifestyle adds cultural depth. Ouarzazate’s desert-meets-mountain vibe is a welcome respite.

Tips for Bikers:

  • Bike Prep: Equip your bike with knobby tires and upgraded suspension, like Noraly’s CRF300L, for rocky trails.

  • Skills: Practice low-speed control for steep descents. Noraly’s experience underscores the need for confidence in technical riding.

  • Gear: Wear flexible, CE-certified gear, such as Noraly’s REV’IT! Dirt Series, for protection and mobility.

  • Mechanics: Ouarzazate has reliable mechanics. Carry spares (clutch cables, tire repair kit) for remote areas.

Step 4: High Atlas to Saharan Sand Dunes in Merzouga (Season 7, Episode 5)



Location Details: Noraly rides approximately 200–300 km from the High Atlas to Merzouga, near the Erg Chebbi dunes, a Saharan outpost known for its towering sand formations.

Scenery: The landscape transitions from the High Atlas’s rugged peaks to flat, arid desert plains. Golden dunes rise like waves against a clear blue sky. The vastness of the Sahara is mesmerizing, with shimmering heatwaves and endless horizons. Noraly captures the dunes’ surreal beauty with drone shots, highlighting their golden hues at sunset.

Activities in Merzouga: Noraly camps near the dunes, setting up her tent to experience the desert’s tranquility. She interacts with nomadic Amazigh families, learning about their desert survival techniques, and rides short loops through sandy tracks to test Alaska’s handling.

Riding Conditions: Flat desert terrain with sandy tracks challenges throttle control. Wind can whip up sand, reducing visibility, and multiple tracks require careful navigation.

Highlights: The Erg Chebbi dunes’ majestic beauty and the warmth of Amazigh nomads shine. Noraly’s desert camping under starry skies is a bucket-list moment.

Tips for Bikers

  • Navigation: Use GPS, like Noraly’s Air3 7.2 tablet with OSM, and local guidance, as desert tracks are disorienting.

  • Gear: Switch to lighter clothing, such as Noraly’s Jersey Scramble, for desert heat.

  • Safety: Carry extra water and fuel. Merzouga has basic services, but spares are limited.

  • Experience: Book a desert camp or lodge in Merzouga for a guided dune tour or camel ride to complement your ride.

Step 5: Merzouga to Tata (Season 7, Episodes 6–12)


Location Details: Noraly covers about 400–500 km from Merzouga to Tata, a desert town near the Anti-Atlas Mountains, passing through smaller settlements like Zagora.

Scenery: The route features vast desert plains with reddish sand and rocky outcrops, framed by distant mountains. Zagora’s palm-lined oases add bursts of green to the arid landscape. Tata’s rugged hills signal the Anti-Atlas’s approach. Noraly notes the stark beauty of empty horizons, punctuated by occasional nomadic camps.

Activities:

  1. Zagora: Noraly refuels and explores the town’s market, buying local dates and admiring its desert architecture. She chats with locals about road conditions, noting Morocco’s rapid paving of dirt routes.

  2. Tata: She rests in Tata, enjoying its quieter vibe compared to touristy cities. She visits local cafes, sampling mint tea, and prepares Alaska for the southern push.

Riding Conditions: A mix of newly paved roads and sandy or gravelly off-road sections prevails. February’s cooler desert temperatures are ideal, but wind can create loose sand patches.

Highlights: The contrast of desert oases and barren plains, plus Tata’s laid-back charm, stand out. Noraly’s observations about paved roads highlight Morocco’s changing landscape.

Tips for Bikers

  • Route Choice: Mix paved and dirt roads based on skill level. Noraly’s dirt trails are ideal for adventure riders, but paved routes are faster for beginners.

  • Fuel: Plan stops in Zagora and Tata. Carry extra fuel for sparse desert stretches.

  • Cultural Immersion: Visit Zagora’s markets for souvenirs and Tata’s cafes for local cuisine.

Step 6: Tata to Dakhla via Esmara (Season 7, Episodes 12–13)


Navigation Details: Noraly rides from Tata to Esmara (also spelled Es-Semara), a desert city, then continues to Dakhla, a coastal city in Western Sahara. This leg covers about 640 km from Tata to Esmara and an additional stretch to Dakhla.

Scenery: The journey from Tata to Esmara features stark desert plains with reddish sand and scattered rocky outcrops, stretching endlessly under a blazing sky. From Esmara to Dakhla, Noraly takes off-road tracks through the Sahara, encountering vast, flat expanses and soft sand dunes that shimmer in the heat. Dakhla’s coastal landscape introduces a dramatic shift: golden beaches meet turquoise lagoons, framed by windswept desert cliffs. Noraly describes the desert ride as one of her most memorable, with the untouched Sahara’s raw beauty evoking a sense of solitude and adventure.

Activities:

  1. Esmara: Noraly briefly stops in Esmara to restock supplies and refuel, interacting with locals in this remote desert hub. She prepares for the challenging off-road ride to Dakhla, checking Alaska’s tires and fuel capacity.

  2. Dakhla: In Dakhla, Noraly explores the city’s famous lagoon and beaches, known for kitesurfing and windsurfing. She rides short loops around the coastal area, capturing drone footage of the stunning desert-meets-ocean scenery. She encounters surprises, possibly local wildlife or cultural moments, though specifics are not detailed. She rests in a guesthouse, preparing paperwork (passport, carnet de passage) for the Mauritania crossing.

Riding Conditions: The Tata-to-Esmara stretch mixes paved and sandy off-road sections, with wind creating loose sand patches. The Esmara-to-Dakhla off-road route is demanding, with soft sand and gravel requiring advanced throttle control. Coastal winds in Dakhla can reduce visibility. Paved roads near Dakhla offer relief.

Highlights: The epic off-road ride from Esmara to Dakhla, which Noraly calls a highlight of her journey, showcases the Sahara’s untouched beauty. Dakhla’s lagoon and coastal cliffs provide a striking contrast, blending desert and ocean vistas.

Tips for Bikers

  • Navigation: Use a reliable GPS, like Noraly’s Air3 7.2 tablet with OSM, and consult locals, as desert tracks are disorienting.

  • Gear: Wear lightweight, breathable gear, such as Noraly’s Jersey Scramble, for desert heat. Carry a windproof layer for Dakhla’s coastal winds.

  • Safety: Carry extra water and fuel for sparse desert stretches. Dakhla has basic services, but spares are limited.

  • Cultural Note: Dakhla is in Western Sahara, a disputed territory. Check travel advisories and respect local customs, using French or Arabic phrases for communication.

Step 7: Dakhla to Southern Morocco (Season 7, Episode 13)


Navigation Details: After exploring Dakhla, Noraly rides toward Morocco’s southern border near Guelmim, completing the final leg before Mauritania.

Scenery: The southern desert remains stark and expansive, with flat, sandy plains stretching to the horizon. Occasionally, dry wadis (riverbeds) and rocky hills break the monotony. Noraly faces dramatic weather: raging wadis from rare rain, snowfall in higher areas, and sandstorms reducing visibility to near zero. The desolate, wind-swept landscape feels like an endurance test, yet its raw beauty captivates.

Activities in Guelmim: Noraly stops in Guelmim, a regional hub, to restock supplies and check Alaska for the border crossing. She explores the town’s bustling market, buying snacks and fuel, and prepares paperwork for Mauritania.

Riding Conditions: Harsh conditions, with muddy wadis, sandy tracks, and windstorms, challenge navigation and bike handling. Paved roads near Guelmim offer relief.

Highlights: The extreme weather adds an epic dimension to the ride, with Noraly’s resilience shining through. Guelmim’s lively market provides a cultural contrast to the remote desert.

Tips for Bikers

  • Weather Prep: Check forecasts and avoid riding in heavy rain or sandstorms. Noraly’s Smock Barrier rain gear is essential.

  • Endurance: Long distances require stamina. Rest in Guelmim’s guesthouses.

  • Border Prep: Ensure paperwork is ready for Mauritania, as Noraly does.

  • Safety: Use a satellite communicator, such as a Garmin inReach, in remote areas.

Practical Tips for Following Noraly’s Route

Motorcycle Choice

Noraly’s Honda CRF300L Rally, modified with suspension upgrades and extra fuel capacity, handles Morocco’s mixed terrain.

  • Recommendation: Choose a lightweight adventure bike, such as a CRF300L or Yamaha Ténéré 700, for versatility.

  • Maintenance: Schedule repairs in Ouarzazate, Guelmim, or Dakhla. Carry spares (clutch cables, inner tubes).

Gear and Equipment

  • Clothing: REV’IT! Dirt Series (Peninsula Pants, Jersey Scramble, Component H2O jacket) for varied climates.

  • Luggage: Mosko Moto Reckless 80L for gear and cameras.

  • Protection: Airoh helmet, Expedition GTX boots.

  • Tip: Pack versatile layers for cold mountains, hot deserts, and windy coasts.

Navigation

Noraly uses an Air3 7.2 tablet with OSM.

  • Recommendation: Use a rugged GPS with offline maps. Carry a paper map.

  • Local Help: Ask Amazigh locals for directions in remote areas, especially near Dakhla.

Safety and Cultural Tips

  • Solo Riding: Noraly delays video releases for safety. Inform someone of your route.

  • Cultural Respect: Dress modestly, learn Arabic or French phrases, and accept local hospitality. Be aware of Western Sahara’s status in Dakhla.

  • Health: Carry water purification tablets and insect repellent for southern regions.

  • Emergency: Use a satellite communicator in remote areas.

Best Time to Ride

February offers cool desert temperatures but mountain snow, as Noraly experiences.

  • Recommendation: Ride February to April or October to November. Avoid summer heat (July to September).

Why Follow Noraly’s Route?

Noraly’s Morocco journey is a visual and emotional feast. From the Mordor-like High Atlas pass to the golden Erg Chebbi dunes and Dakhla’s desert-coastal blend, her route skips tourist traps. It dives into authentic Morocco: remote villages, Amazigh hospitality, and untouched landscapes. Cities like Chefchaouen, Midelt, Ouarzazate, Merzouga, Zagora, Tata, Esmara, Dakhla, and Guelmim offer cultural richness. The varied terrain challenges every rider. Watch her Season 7 episodes on YouTube (Wednesdays and Sundays) and visit itchyboots.com for gear details.

Ready to chase Noraly’s Mordor vistas, desert dreams, and Dakhla’s coastal magic? Share your plans below, and let’s hit the road!

Disclaimer

This route is based on Noraly’s Season 7 journey (YouTube and itchyboots.com). Verify road conditions, border requirements, and safety advisories, especially in Western Sahara, before riding. Respect local customs and ride safely. This route might be risky due to many reasons.

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